Halong Junks

Well Cow fans, The Cow and I have journeyed far, seen extraordinary sights, made wonderful friends and had many laughs along the way. Sadly, such travels inevitably turn back toward home, where I now find myself, huddled inside the cloister while the wind howls outside and the rain buckets down.

It’s a far cry from the heat and the swelter of the last two weeks.

As I suspected I wasn’t able to report to you too regularly while I was travelling, but I have accumulated a veritable milk-pail full of great stories, so I hope you don’t mind if we stay restrospectively in Vietnam over the next little while.

There is fun aplenty still to come.

Control


This is the remote control for the air conditioner in a cabin on a cruise junk at Vietnam’s beautiful Halong Bay. Please to take notice of the only English word to appear on this unit.

It explains a lot.

Noodles

Last night one of the Quang Ngai orphanage volunteers threw a party for her English students at the volunteer household. It was a Western style party with beer & nibbles and an almost unbelievable spread of Vietnamese food. It was also a theme party and the theme was ‘Everyone Speaks English’. I felt sure I’d be able to handle that, even after the inevitable copious imbibation (! Did I say English?) of the ubiquitous ‘333’ beer.

At the party I met the delightful Mr Viet, Director of The Fund for Children of Quang Ngai Province, and his wife Khanh, who generously invited a few of us to tour his two rehabilitation centres just west of Quang Ngai city and see the work they were doing there for underprivileged and disabled children. I won’t dwell on the harrowing aspect of this trip – it is sufficient to say that Mr Viet and his volunteers are doing amazing things for their community and the people of Vietnam are very lucky to have such committed, hardworking and canny people.

After our tour, Mr & Mrs Viet took us to lunch at My Khe beach, a stretch of white sand and warm blue water that rivals the best Pacific Resorts for beauty, and which sports a bunch of funky shaded restaurants that surpass pretty much anywhere for food.

After the enormous meal (how the hell do these people stay so thin?) of clams, monstrous prawns (Americans: there is NO way these things can qualify as shrimp), banh xeo and fish soup, the talk naturally turned to the eating of dog. Mr Viet asked if I had ever tried dog meat, and I confessed I had not. Mr Viet is a very big fan of dog meat. He assured me it is the best food one could find in Vietnam, and invited me to dine with him the next time I was here, on the most superior dog cuisine I would ever eat. I said I would be honoured to join him. We talked further of eating dog, then snake (very popular dishes in Vietnam), horse (which would possibly be popular if there were more horses) and cat (which is also eaten, but not so much).

On the way back in the car I said to Nurse Myra, “Y’know, I have no in principle problem with eating dog. I mean, I feel I can’t object really, without being hypocritical – I eat pretty much anything else”.

We drove on for a few minutes.

“What about cat?” she asked, with her typically evil insight.

We drove on for a further few minutes.

I wondered idly if Glitch would taste better with rice or noodles.

This is how it works:

Nurse Myra is scheduled to do English lessons on Monday night. Tonight, there is some question as to whether the classes are on.

The interpreters are Mr Thinh and Miss Linh.

On quizzing Mr Thinh early in the day, yes, the classes are definitely on. Later Miss Linh says that Mr Thinh has said that the classes are not on any longer. On talking further with Miss Linh, however, it seems that she is not really sure if the classes are on. Or in fact, if Mr Thinh actually said the classes are not on. Mr Thinh, on the telephone, says that the classes are on.

We think.

Later, we see Miss Linh, who says that the classes are not on. Is she sure?

Yes, she is sure.

That the classes are not on?

No.

That they’re on?

Yes.

She’s sure they’re on?

No.

Are the classes on?

Yes, Mr Thinh says the classes are not on.

On the telephone, Mr Thinh says the classes are on.

Definitely?

Yes.

We think.

So we walk around to the classrooms. It looks deserted. The gates are closed and padlocked. But there are lights on inside. Nurse Myra reaches through and is able to undo one padlock. We open the gate and walk inside.

From somewhere two guard dogs appear, snarling and barking.

Definitely not on.

This framed poster, on a wall at the Xinh Moi. Look carefully at the legend above the girl’s knee…

I have momentary wi-fi. Nurse Myra has treated me to a couple of hours at the wonderful Victoria Hotel in Hoi An. Pool, cocktails, wi-fi. Sigh.

I’d like to write more guys, really I would. But I can see the pool from where I’m sitting, and well, you know I love yez all, but… oh, is that the time?

Rules

Nurse Myra has us staying at the wonderful Xinh Moi Hotel* in the newly decreed ‘city’ (it was until recently a town) Quang Ngai. The Xinh Moi is a kind of grand palatial kind of building, painted a very fetching shade of hyper-peppermint green (I’m not being sarcastic – I do think it’s a lovely colour). In the manner of many Vietnamese buildings it has a haphazard shabbiness that makes it very appealing. It is also quite weird – the entire centre of the hotel is a three-storey big empty room. Cars and bikes get parked on the ground floor, but aside from that, it has to be said that the Xinh Moi, as a piece of architecture, is mostly empty space.

We have our suspicions about some of the activities going on in the Xinh Moi. More about that in a bit.

One of the great features of the Xinh Moi, along with the air-conditioning and the very polite staff, is the list of guest rules.

Here are a couple (verbatim):

5. Don’t bring foods such as dry squids, octopus little fishes, dry fishes into the room. If the guests have them. Please send them in the kitchen of the hotel.

6. Don’t bring the flamable materials and the things easily explode (burst) into the room.

This causes me to wonder if in the past there has been some very unfortunate kind of fish-based explosive incident in one of the rooms, the aftermath of which can only be imagined. It would, perhaps, also explain the industrial quantities of mothballs and napthalene-fumed cleaning solutions that the housekeeping staff seem to like to douse our room with each day.

Another favourite is:

12. Everybody much obey the struction number 05 of the Government about the guests houses and hotels never taking the possitude oneselt girl into the room.

Now, we’ve been sitting in the cocktail bar across the road these past few evenings, and our considered opinion is that there is something of a business of extra-hotel activities in operation at the back of the Xinh Moi. Certainly, a couple of nights back, the room next door was breaking rule:

7. Don’t make very noisly and loudly sound that are able to affect badly to next rooms

…what with the exuberant male voices and the flirtatious female giggling…

Nurse Myra and I looked at each other.

“Possitude oneselt girls”, we agreed.

___________________________________________________________________________

*Not its real name. I’d hate to get these poor people in trouble with the government, which is a very real possibility in this country.

« Previous PageNext Page »